We ended yesterday in a town, named Arcade. It had been a hard day ending with a hill, and the first hotel we come to is completo -sold out. They called the only other place to stay, and luckily they had one room left.
This morning we walked down to sea level, and then started a long rugged climb, first along skinny cobble stone town streets and then continued up a rock strewn trail. There were dozens of Pilgrims along the way, one couple from Redwood City who had a vacation home in Truckee; and another couple from Washington. Both couples were in their 60’s, so we had ahold timers get together. After we conquered the hill, it was back to mostly road walking. Interesting, all the area accommodations are taken up by people from all around the world attending a Frozen Food conference. Funny, no Eskimos.
We are now in Caldas de Reis, formerly known for it’s hot springs, but looking very Industrial now.
We went to rosary & Mass tonight, and met 6 Pilgrims from Brazil, who started the pilgrimage to Santiago from the shrine at Fatima, Portugal. They have been walking 17 days.
Today was a test of legs, back, and probably brain, there were two serious hills, and the climbs were definitely a workout, while they were a long steady up, the backside was a very steep down and very trying on the knees. Added to todays trials, were several ‘Do or Die’ crossings of several high speed roads (135 Kms).
We did meet a honeymooning couple from Poland, a single woman from Russia, a Canadian, and finally two USA – Seattle & New York.
We got to Valanca, Portugal and had thought if we can make it across the border to Tui, Spain we will be doing well. Starting in Valanca, we became caught up in a group of fifteen or so Pilgrims, and we followed in their wake across the river into Tui, Spain. The number of Pilgrims on foot and on bicycle, all wishing a Buen Camino just caught us up into the excitement of the Camino; filled with the Spirit we just kept walking. It was the Camino of old – in about 14 Kms we came to a bar, that became crowded with Pilgrims, German, Brazilian, Spanish, Austrian, and us, take off the boots, have a beer and a sandwich, fill the water bottles – the perfect Camino experience.
There were many photo ops and we arrived in Porrino, Spain, which had been having a month long festival, which was ending today. HEY! It is a petty day. We find a 3star hotel, clean up our act and join the town fiesta. We find a very busy restaurant to watch the festivities from and enjoy dinner, calimari, pulpo, and a chickpea/chorizo and meat dish, and a bottle of wine. We get back to our hotel opting for a final/final. Monica orders a sherry. A perfect choice, I order an expresso and a brandy. I get the coffee, the bartender set up a large brandy snifter, and commences to fill it to the brim. Good night Pilgrims. . .
Those are cobblestones in the yard in the house photo. Can you imagine hand setting all those to make a driveway? The crosswalk light came on so this was a ‘Don’t Walk’ day. Tonite we are staying in a private … Continue reading →
Yesterday they told us the distance was 22 Kms (13.6 miles) and it turned out to be 27Kms (16.5 miles), so OK we survived it. Again today it was supposed to be another 22 Kms, but ended up being 28 Kms. Today they threw in a couple of hills, yesterday was flat. Every time we stopped and asked how much further we had to go the distance got longer – How can this be we have walked for over an hour, and our destination is further away. We were late and tired getting to our Pension. We met a young single German Pilgrim along the way today, and we ended up catching up, as she had passed us earlier, and arriving at the day’s destination together.
Much of the day was spent on cobblestone streets, they are uneven to walk on and the trekking poles catch in the space between to stones, so it is not comfortable walking. Amazingly though, we passed both street workers and private homes where they were building cobblestone streets and driveways by hand. Equally amazing was the men and women working in commercial size gardens doing all the work by hand. A step back in time.
There was a beautiful section of today’s walk through a rocky wooded area, crossing a river on a stone foot bridge. We also visited several beautiful churches. Much of the day was through very prosperous residential areas, none of the abandoned derelict crumbling medieval, that makes up many rural areas of Europe. Everything neat, clean, and modernized.
We are now in Viana do Castello, going to spend an extra day seeing the town. We are spending tonite in a very nice Pension, their attached restaurant is great. Since we have been walking along the coast, we have eaten mostly seafood, and tonight’s dinner was super. They didn’t have a room for us tomorrow, but, no problem, we are staying tomorrow night with the Pension owner’s sister in their family home.
Today we walked for seemingly miles and miles along a boardwalk that parallels just back from the beach. First they told us it was a 22 km day, it turned out to be 27 Kms. The first miles are in two ocean front resort towns (right down their touristy streets) then you go on the boardwalk, because it is actually boards, you can’t use trekking poles, because they get stuck between the boards. It is nice walking along the ocean where there is a moist breeze.
Along the way we met a German couple, they are veteran Pilgrims and today was their 45th wedding anniversary. They said they had at another time met a couple from Ca. We know Susan Alcorn and her husband, who live in Layfayette, CA. What are the odds?
We forged on and stopped to ask a farmer how far to the town where our hotel was? He said two or three Kms. Great! We are almost home. A number of Kms later (we have now been walking in woods) we come to a bar in a village, and ask for directions to our hotel. Our hotel was not here, but in the next town further on. The good news there were two Pilgrims in the bar, one young man spoke perfect English from Barcelona and his older companion from Italy, who had already done nine Caminos were now walking together to Santiago. The bar owner was above and beyond to assist us. We didn’t know any of these people but it was like a reunion. The good news it was only a couple of more Kms to our hotel. but, after the fellow Pilgrims reunion, it was a easy walk to our hotel.
Along the way we got three extra stamps on our credential, and a new shot of enthusiasm for the Camino. The Camino is a long walk, but not all long walks are a Camino. The True Camino has many lessons to be learned, and many gifts. Mental, physical, and spiritually, the Camino is not a stroll in the park.
We are entering Vila do Conde, but at the time we can see nothing that looks like a town, but along comes a cute young angel. We ask her, “which way is the centro?” She replies,”Come with me I’m going there.” She is a college student studying Hospitality, so she points out all the points of interest along the way, like the Roman aqueduct and the overlook of the town. As we descend into the town, she leaves for her own appointment. We begin to look for the Pilgrim Albergue, in the general direction our Angel had pointed us. But, as we have been searching in vain, along comes another young cute Angel, this one is employed as a baker, “I understand the question, and I don’t have an answer, but come with me.” A little further along, she has a conversation with another young lady, who does have an answer. Our Angel takes us to the Alberque, but it isn’t open. As we have had nothing to eat all day, she takes us on a tour of various eating places, giving her opinion on each, as this village is on the ocean, she left us at a waterfront restaurant. It was a good suggestion, Monica had a whole fish grilled. The lunch was excellent, and the restaurant also included a Pension. So, we now had food and lodging. The owner was a dynamite lady with an answer to our every question. No problem! Life is sweet for a Pilgrim in Portugal.
Oporto has a dozen ancient churches, interesting archetecture but unkept, understandably since it is a poor country. Their attendance will match anyone. The morning Mass was a full church. At one time a leading world power, but then pretty much out gunned by everyone. Now in a power crazy world Portugal is some what of a lost child.
Today the streets were thronged with tourist. At first it is unbelievable, summer is over in most of Europe, it is a weekday, so why this middle of summer holiday frenzy? Simple, Portugal is the best value for the buck in most of the civilized world. The reason the American expat’s and many, many others resettled here is it has all the services at a much reduced price compared to any other country. Today after hours of walking around the city, we returned to our hotel and ordered a couple of beers, I had a second. The bill was three euros, one euro a beer. One beer in France would have been three or four euros. Tonight’s dinner was delicious, more than we could eat, including a bottle of reserve wine for under $50.
Picture and story at eleven. . . During our lunch a TV news crew came in and filmed a story about the restaurant, we were sitting in the background. Stardom dogs us every where.
the street sign in the featured photo didn’t come through, but it said “Trindade,” Monica later told a police officer we were talking with her name, and he corrected the pronounciation.
When last we heard the gypsies were hiking in France? No, they were driving in France? No, no, no, they were looking for a hotel in France? And now the featured photo is Portugal – please try to keep up. We have just experienced a medical exam by Aliens, so we are a bit confused.
As last we recall, we drove to Bayonne, France. Why? To get to Irun, Spain of course. Soooo, then a nice train took us on an all night ride to Coimbra, Portugal. Why? To catch another train to Oporto, Portugal, of course. All these why’s, you people don’t get out much I guess. So, now we are in Oporto, spent a couple hours walking all the hilly streets with our backpacks in search of a tourist office who could give us all the details on the Portuguese Camino to Santiago. Oh sure, now you remember this all started as a Pilgrimage. Well, none of the tourist offices had any info, they just wanted to sell us a trip to the Canaries. Well, that’s for the birds, so they told us we had to go to the Cathedral (on top of another hill). We climbed to the Cathedral, where we did get a stamp on our Pilgrim credential, but they had no info about the Camino to Santiago. Interesting, they said people were very interested in walking to Fatima, but they knew nothing about that either. They, the Cathdral office said go to a bookstore, and they recommended two bookshops. We went to both, neither had anything about the Camino, let alone a guide book. So, we have spent several more hours walking about the city. We did discover a huge inclosed market area, and had a delicious lunch. Then met two California expats and the wife’s parents, all of whom probably wouldn’t have believed our alien abduction story. But, as they say one in every four is . . . Who says that?
Well, you may hear rumors that we are off tomorrow as Pilgrims.
We are being tourist sightseeing, stop and open our street map, immediately a young couple stops and asks if we need assistance. No, we are doing OK, but thanks.
Yesterday, Sunday, we stopped in several villages trying to find a place to stay for the night, everything was closed – Nada. On to the next village where we stopped at a crowded pizza shop, where two women were busy making the pizzas. Neither of them spoke English, but one indicated there was no hotel, but grabbed her phone and making calls to two Chambres de notes, continued making pizza with other hand. Sorry, no place is open. Then she asked the waiting customers, and now we have a committee of 4 or 5 debating our problem in French. Then a customer arrives with a smattering of English, she translates that down the road past the next three roundabouts is a hotel. We spent last night at that hotel.
There is one piece of art found in every village in France, like the statue of Joan of Arc, it is a statue to the war dead of WWI (the war to end all wars.). Then you visit the churches and other historic buildings that have been restored or are still being restored from the bombings of WWII. Then you see the news films of Aleppo today. Have we not learned anything?